I am, occasionally, asked what sort of food I cook. I'll normally answer vaguely with "Modern English" as though that were a phrase that actually means anything. It's a kiss-off answer, like answering "Goodfellas" when someone asks you what your favourite film is, as if anyone can narrow their preferred films down to one. "Oh, Modern English" I'll say, waving my arms around for emphasis, though what I'm emphasising is not explained. Normally by the time my interlocutor has worked this one out I've gone and hidden in the walk-in. It's a bit of a vexed question, what do I cook? Allsorts, really, I've never really drilled down to define it. The truth is that, in my patchwork, self-taught career I've jumbled together a bunch of influences into a style which resembles, from a distance, something that's my own. I've never approached cheffing from a chef's perspective, I've generally looked at my job as being one o...
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